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The last plumassier: storying dead birds, gender and Paraffection at Maison Lemarié

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The last plumassier : storying dead birds, gender and Paraffection at Maison Lemarié. / Pacault, Marine; Patchett, Merle.

In: cultural geographies, Vol. 25, No. 1, 01.01.2018, p. 123-134.

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Pacault, Marine ; Patchett, Merle. / The last plumassier : storying dead birds, gender and Paraffection at Maison Lemarié. In: cultural geographies. 2018 ; Vol. 25, No. 1. pp. 123-134.

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@article{9950a87065634d78b222fdaabb437523,
title = "The last plumassier: storying dead birds, gender and Paraffection at Maison Lemari{\'e}",
abstract = "Founded in 1875, Maison Lemari{\'e} is one of the last remaining plumassiers (feather-makers) anywhere in the world. In highly concentrated and minutely detailed work the artisans at Lemari{\'e} painstakingly treat, dye, and apply fragile feathers to haute couture garments. Mindful of preserving these rarefied skills, Chanel (Global Fashion Empire) purchased the workshop in 1997 as part of “Paraffection”. Paraffection, which roughly translates to “for the love of it”, is a Chanel subsidiary company established to preserve and promote the heritage, craft, and manufacturing skills of highly specialised fashion ateliers. By enacting a visit to Maison Lemari{\'e}, this paper demonstrates how its heritage and skills are embodied not only in the artisans working there but also in the feathered remains used and housed in the workshop. Unravelling the stories held in human and avian bodies, we suggest, enables a series of broader geographical reflections on skill, gender and Paraffection.",
keywords = "Workshop, Gender, Haute Couture, Skill, Archive",
author = "Marine Pacault and Merle Patchett",
year = "2018",
month = "1",
day = "1",
doi = "10.1177/1474474016673067",
language = "English",
volume = "25",
pages = "123--134",
journal = "cultural geographies",
issn = "1474-4740",
publisher = "SAGE Publications Ltd",
number = "1",

}

RIS - suitable for import to EndNote

TY - JOUR

T1 - The last plumassier

T2 - storying dead birds, gender and Paraffection at Maison Lemarié

AU - Pacault, Marine

AU - Patchett, Merle

PY - 2018/1/1

Y1 - 2018/1/1

N2 - Founded in 1875, Maison Lemarié is one of the last remaining plumassiers (feather-makers) anywhere in the world. In highly concentrated and minutely detailed work the artisans at Lemarié painstakingly treat, dye, and apply fragile feathers to haute couture garments. Mindful of preserving these rarefied skills, Chanel (Global Fashion Empire) purchased the workshop in 1997 as part of “Paraffection”. Paraffection, which roughly translates to “for the love of it”, is a Chanel subsidiary company established to preserve and promote the heritage, craft, and manufacturing skills of highly specialised fashion ateliers. By enacting a visit to Maison Lemarié, this paper demonstrates how its heritage and skills are embodied not only in the artisans working there but also in the feathered remains used and housed in the workshop. Unravelling the stories held in human and avian bodies, we suggest, enables a series of broader geographical reflections on skill, gender and Paraffection.

AB - Founded in 1875, Maison Lemarié is one of the last remaining plumassiers (feather-makers) anywhere in the world. In highly concentrated and minutely detailed work the artisans at Lemarié painstakingly treat, dye, and apply fragile feathers to haute couture garments. Mindful of preserving these rarefied skills, Chanel (Global Fashion Empire) purchased the workshop in 1997 as part of “Paraffection”. Paraffection, which roughly translates to “for the love of it”, is a Chanel subsidiary company established to preserve and promote the heritage, craft, and manufacturing skills of highly specialised fashion ateliers. By enacting a visit to Maison Lemarié, this paper demonstrates how its heritage and skills are embodied not only in the artisans working there but also in the feathered remains used and housed in the workshop. Unravelling the stories held in human and avian bodies, we suggest, enables a series of broader geographical reflections on skill, gender and Paraffection.

KW - Workshop

KW - Gender

KW - Haute Couture

KW - Skill

KW - Archive

U2 - 10.1177/1474474016673067

DO - 10.1177/1474474016673067

M3 - Article

VL - 25

SP - 123

EP - 134

JO - cultural geographies

JF - cultural geographies

SN - 1474-4740

IS - 1

ER -