50 Shades of Green

: The Diffusion of Circular Textiles within Fashion Retail from an Actor-Level Perspective

Abstract

The sustainability of the fashion industry is increasingly under fire. One particularly bright spotlight shines on fibre production, a resource-intensive manufacturing stage with high emissions. In response, innovators are developing textiles aligned to the circular economy. However, integrating these innovations into commercial fashion collections that resonate with consumers is proving difficult. Using the Diffusion of Innovation Theory as a lens, this research investigates the motivations and tensions influencing fashion retailers’ adoption of circular textiles and the relationships and networks through which circular textile diffusion happens. Through an actor-based approach involving semi-structured interviews, this research reveals that there is not one definitive influence piquing practitioners’ interest in circular textiles. Instead, a combination of factors push and pull practitioners to explore these innovations and collectively drive diffusion, including: legislation; pressure from investors, NGOs and the media; internal mindset; management sentiment; consumer awareness and demand; the influence of other actors in retailers’ supply chains, and corporate drive for competitive advantage and reputational benefits. The actor-based approach, which was not a theoretical underpinning but a way to give voice to participants, extends the diffusion literature by offering a rich account of the complexity of the diffusion process. It allows an understanding of the plethora of motivations influencing adoption, including how relationships may be more important than previously thought, and the influence of regulatory changes on the pace and marketing of circular strategies. This research also takes the diffusion of innovation theory forward by drawing links to the greenwashing literature, and the concepts of observability and trialability. This brings into focus the nuances at play when adopting circular textiles in practice, the tensions emerging, and the need for the thoughtful, and strategic, use of these materials. Recommendations are made for policymakers and fashion practitioners, including how these innovations could be used and marketed without greenwashing.

Date of Award	10 Dec 2024
Original language	English
Awarding Institution	University of Bristol
Supervisor	Agnes Nairn (Supervisor), Ian Cook (Supervisor) & David M Evans (Supervisor)